Fig A.
Fig B.
Fig C.
Fig D.
This is the extended version of the field notes I took during the excursion:
The British countryside of Kent was absolutely beautiful to drive through. It was just as I'd imagined it, with its dense patches of green wood, and its gently rolling fields. The castle, up high on those dazzling white cliffs, was truly a sight to see. It's all I imagined a castle would be!—with just a few differences here and there. (See Fig D.)
Formerly, there was a moat, that I can only imagine would have been a beast to get by. The outer walls were enormous, and I can see how a large village could easily wedge all its people in one of these castles in a pinch. The arrow slit things were big and angled on the inside, which I wasn't expecting. It's cooler than the simple slender hole in the wall I was envisioning. You could fit at least a couple archers in one of those things.
All the various bits of the castle were built in different times. From the lighthouse (100 A.D., built in Roman times!) to sections from the WWII era added as extra fortification against Hitler, there were all sorts of parts that came together to make the whole we now see. The keep was built from 1181-1188 A.D., by Henry II. The keep was the part most similar to what I imagine when I think of a castle in the context of fairytales and things. The differences were that it was made of a rougher hewn stone, it was a bit more cramped, and there was a dank, wet smell I hadn't quite expected. Also, the Great Hall was so small! I'd always imagined a cavernous structure suitable for a grand ball, but I now know this was wrong. It was larger than the other, much smaller rooms, but it was still quite small. I think it's smaller than the writers of some of those novels imagined, since there's no way some of the described events could have fit in there!
The roof of the keep, with its battlements, was magnificent! A stunning view of all that lies within the outer castle walls, as well as rich Kent panoramas (the garden of England), the busy shipping center of Dover port, and in the distance, the French shore across the English channel. (By the way, why do we call it the English channel, as it's shared evenly with France?) It blows my mind that someone could swim all that way—it's huge. (See Fig. A)
At the little seafood stand near the pier, I tried a whelk. I felt very adventurous. It was rubbery and salty, and I wasn't terribly fond of it, but I ate it without losing it or spitting it out, which I was proud of. I also ate a crayfish tail, which was interesting, since the only other crawfish I've eaten have been in Louisiana, where they come from considerably less salty water. The shore was rocky, not sandy, with lots of mussel shells. Yet another difference that I find charming.
At Canterbury, I learned all kinds of interesting facts. For one, I learned the story of Thomas a Becket's murder in more detail—that the man whose actor-counterpart we'd just left at Dover had accidentally had him killed! Henry II came back later, after Thomas's death, to wear a hare shirt and let himself be whipped by the monks, in penance.
Thomas a Becket's ghost is supposedly a black stain in the crypt on one of the pillars. It's in the shape of a monk and it refuses to be scrubbed off, no matter how hard people have tried.
Monks living in the Monastary affixed to the cathedral didn't drink the water, because it was filthy. They all just drank alcohol. (See Fig B.--Monks' old quarters and gardens)
Henry IV was the only king to be buried at Canterbury. His wife is buried there, as well. In the Victorian times, some doubted that it really and truly was Henry, so they broke open his tomb and took a look. It was.
The Black Prince of Wales is also buried in the cathedral, and has a shrine for himself just across from Henry IV, in the quire. He was a well-loved English champion against the French. Apparently, it's still a sore spot for French visitors in the Cathedral, the tour guide told us.
An archbishop with his tomb in the quire (the one that started All Soul's at Oxford) had an awesome shrine that's brightly painted and well-maintained. His elaborate effigy lies on top, robed in bright colors. Beneath that sculpture lies a statue of a gaunt corpse, as if to say we all go to the same death, no matter how glorious we were in life. I thought it a very humble gesture, and I admired it very much.
The spacious nave (main, central aisle of the cathedral) was rebuilt in the 1400s, after burning and collapsing just before then.
This site at Canterbury has been a holy place for a long time—there was even a Roman church there long ago that's been built over.
Hardly any of the monks caught the Black Death because of their clean water system—they caught drain water and pumped it into the bathroom of the monastery. Because the monks stayed clean, they stayed well.
The Americans contributed a great deal to the cathedral's reconstuction during the 20th century, especially after World War two. The cathedral added little sculptures built into a corner, of an eagle, an elephant, and a donkey.
In 1982, pope John Paul II and the then-current archbishop of Canterbury prayed together at the present shrine to Thomas, where he's thought to have been killed. I thought that was nice.
Many miracles happened to pilgrims visiting Thomas's tomb, like healings of the sick or blessings of fertility. The blessings were gotten by simply touching the shrine and donating to the monks. However, if you didn't properly pay your tribute, the monks would often threaten to take away your miracle. (How that works, I don't know.)
It's believed that one of the original tombs of St. Thomas had holes in the side, so one could actually see or touch the interred bones of the martyr, strengthening its power to heal.
They still have a lot of weddings, receptions, and funerals at the cathedral. The ceremonies are held in one of the larger chapels of the crypt, and receptions are generally in the chapter house.
The quire (formerly, the exclusive chapel for the monks and those closely associated to the church) was even more beautiful than the nave! It was just for monks until King Henry the eight's dissolution of the monasteries. Thanks for that! It was beautiful. (See Fig. C)
A magnificent pipe organ is built seamlessly into the architecture, looking just like pillars. It blends perfectly with the building itself. I wish I could hear it play! The tour guide says it's incredible to hear.
All the ceilings in the nave, quire, and chapels were once brightly painted. Now it's just plain stone.
Going to Dover and Canterbury was an fun, interesting, educational time. It was truly a very special experience for me.
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